New Orleans: The Battleground Between Good and Evil

St. Louis Cathedral in New Orleans. (Mick Haupt/Unsplash)

Tourists stroll down the cobblestone streets as the southern sun lands on the magnolias.

A jazz band toots its horns under the shade of a majestic oak tree, their instrument cases filled with tips.

The sweet aroma of beignets drifts over the roofs of ancient French shops as pelicans glide over the mighty Mississippi.

This is the French Quarter in New Orleans, Louisiana. A cultural landmark, known for its unique European architecture and delectable cuisine. Within this culture, however, one is apt to see its deep roots in Catholicism.

Upon arriving in the French Quarter, my eye can’t help but notice the famous St. Louis Cathedral. Located in the heart of the city, its three spires reach to the heavens and invite the faithful to follow their lead. The French Quarter revolves around the majestic white structure, first established in 1718, with the current masterpiece completed in 1794. The Cathedral boasts the title of “America's Oldest Continuously Active Catholic Cathedral,” an honor New Orleanians wear proudly.

As I continue to traverse “the Quarter,” I find myself taking note of the street names that position themselves on signs across the city. Streets named “St. Peter,” “Ursulines Ave,” and “St. Phillip” catch my eye, as do “St. Louis” and “St. Ann” which run parallel towards the river. New Orleans cannot hide its Catholicity.

I weave my way through the crowds of tourists that line the streets on a beautiful spring day and reach for the large Cathedral doors. As I enter the sanctuary, the melody of “When the Saints Go Marching In” slowly fades off in the distance. I am enveloped by silence as I slowly approach the main aisle. I dip my fingers in Holy Water, offered by a pair of stone cherubim positioned on marble pillars.

Ecclesial flags line the left side of the isle, located above the pews, guiding parishioners to their seats. On the right, flags of past rulers of New Orleans are elevated, paying homage to the rich history of the city and cathedral. The lions of Spain are situated alongside the red, white and blues of France and Great Britian. Below the colors, dark wooden pews stretch across the marble floor, populated by parishioners awaiting the start of Daily Mass.

The main isle of St. Louis Cathedral. (Mick Haupt/Unsplash)

Behind the altar, golden rays adorn the tabernacle, with Sts. Peter and Paul positioned on either side. The phrase “Ecce Panis Angelorum,” Behold the Bread of Angels, is inscribed above the altar and below an image of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. My eyes continue to an image on the back wall of the Cathedral, one of St. Louis, King of France, the Cathedral’s namesake, “announcing the seventh crusade.”

As Mass begins, I remain captivated by the magnificent artwork and detail that is present in the Cathedral. And as the Host is elevated, I am united with New Orleans Catholics who have celebrated Mass on the site for over two centuries.

Upon exiting the prayerful refuge, I am launched once again into the sights and sounds of a vibrant city. The jazz musicians dance as they toot their horns to the melody of “Do Whatcha Wanna,” a staple in the arsenal of most Louisiana brass ensembles. However, as I continue in my exploration of the city, I am soon brought to grips with the spiritual battle taking place in New Orleans.

While New Orleans’ Catholic identity shines in the French Quarter, opposing forces vie for attention. Fortune tellers and palm readers set up tables outside the Cathedral’s main doors, attempting to introduce tourists to the practices of the occult. Directly facing the Cathedral and the Blessed Sacrament, these pop-up tables make up the “front lines” in the battle for the city’s soul.

The contrast is striking. Makeshift tables feature large handmade signs promoting their occult services. “Fortune tellers” in elaborate clothing rub crystal balls as they occasionally glance up at their client, who eagerly waits to hear his “fortune.” Behind them, however, stands the Cathedral, an unmovable façade of beauty, its spire reaching 130 feet into the Louisiana sky. Its presence is a sign that the battle has been won, and that Christ has triumphed over evil once and for all.

However, I don’t stand near these tables for long. As I continue my leisurely stroll through the historic streets, I observe establishments such as “Starling Magickal Occult Shop” which rests in between St. Phillip Street and Ursulines Avenue. Likewise, The New Orleans Voodoo Museum attracts visitors to learn more about the pagan practice. The Quarter also houses shops such as “Esoterica Occult Goods” and “Voodoo Authentica Inc,” each located one block from the grandiose Cathedral, advancing upon its holy doors.

Rev. Zombie's Voodoo Shop, located near St. Louis Cathedral. (Colin White/Unsplash)

I continue to traverse the pothole-filled roads and stumble upon famous Burbon Street, known for its nightlife and party scene. The famous tourist destination intersects St. Louis and St. Ann streets and its flashing signs invite passersby to indulge themselves in one of the often-sexualized bars and nightclubs. I quickly adjust my route and come across numerous advertisements and tour guides alluring visitors to explore the city’s “haunted” locations. They boast of their unique route which frequents local cemeteries and even a stops by a “voodoo temple.” I soon understand that in New Orleans, the occult disguises itself as “culture.”

At the end of my afternoon of self-guided exploration, I return to St. Louis Cathedral in the perfectly manicured Jackson Square. Facing the historic cathedral-basilica I offer a quick prayer for the fortune tellers and palm readers stationed behind me. As I stand in the trenches of a spiritual battle, I reflect on my day, filled with both heavenly beauty and glimpses of the demonic.

I realize that New Orleans’ obsession with the occult reflects a longing for the supernatural which exists in every soul. In New Orleans, two supernatural experiences battle for the hearts of those in the city. One can be found in the Cathedral, a true source of everlasting happiness. A loving God who makes Himself available to all who wish to visit. The other can be found in the tables outside the Church and in voodoo shops across the French Quarter. This source of the supernatural, however, is unfulfilling. It leaves the soul longing for true joy, which it cannot offer.